Hand Tools | Virginia Toolworks

Renewed Life for My Dad’s Stanley Level

November 10, 2013 10 Comments

My dad died when I was still a teenager. Unlike his father, who was a carpenter, my dad wasn’t much of a woodworker. The few tools he left behind were mostly garden variety homeowner tools purchased from the local hardware store. So when my brother gifted me my dad’s old level this summer, I didn’t give it much thought. It was in horrible condition from decades of neglect. I brought it home and with barely a glance, set it aside on my workbench to deal with later.

With cooler fall temperatures here on the east coast, I recently pulled it out for a closer look. Upon closer inspection, I found that it is a Stanley no. 3 level, which was somewhat of a surprise in and of itself. More interesting, the trademark stamp dates it to the 1890s, approximately 30-35 years before my dad was born. It could have been my grandfather’s, but even he would have had to have purchased it as a teenager, if acquired new. Of course there is no way to know where it came from or who originally owned it, but it ended up in my father’s hands, then my brother’s, and thanks to him, it now belongs to me.

As you can see from the quick shot I took before I got started on it, virtually all the original finish is gone and the wood faded from exposure to the elements. It appears to have spent a good deal of time in a shed or barn. The primary glass vial was intact and serviceable, but the plumb vial was broken long ago. Otherwise, all the parts were in place and thankfully, the vial adjustment screws were not frozen.

My dad’s 1890s vintage Stanley no. 3 Level, partially disassembled

I disassembled and removed all the hardware to better evaluate what needed to be done in terms of cleanup, and to assess the broken plumb vial. After cleaning the rust off all the screws and the vial adjustment mechanisms, I cleaned the crud off the brass plates and end caps. I never polish old brass hardware, but I decided in this case to clean off most of the oxidation in order to better see the center scribe line.

With the hardware cleaned up, I moved on to the wood. Despite its condition, there were numerous paint specks and splatters from years of use that I wanted to protect. The wood itself is evidently cherry. I cleaned it lightly with Kramer’s Blemish Clarifier to remove any loose dirt and crud. I then applied 6 or 8 applications of Kramer’s Best Antique Improver, which I’ve written about before. It’s great stuff, all natural (no petrochemicals), and restores life to finished and unfinished wood.

In the meantime, I went to work sourcing a proper replacement vial. I preferred to keep it as close to original as possible, so new acrylic vials were out of the question. I found a few glass vials for sale on eBay, but the prices were absurdly high. So, I started trolling for a suitable “donor” level of approximately the same vintage. It took 2 or 3 weeks, but I finally found one for under $10 that had the plumb vial intact. When it arrived, I was surprised to find the condition actually better than the photos reflected. I actually felt a little guilty stripping it of one of its parts.

Plumb Assembly Before Vial Replacement

Now if you’ve never replaced a vial in an old Stanley level, you might be surprised to learn that they used Plaster of Paris (or something similar) to cement the glass vial in the tube shaped holder. This both held it in place and also protected the fragile ends. Getting the vial out of the old plane was much easier than I anticipated. Pulling the split holder tube open slightly, the vial and plaster slid right out in one piece. Once out, the old plaster easily released from the glass vial. The vial has a paper backing that wraps around the back side, but it isn’t attached. So carefully removing that paper and setting it aside, a quick cleaning of the glass had it looking very much like new in short order. Positioning the vial along with the paper backing into the assembly on my dad’s plane, I dabbed some plaster into place at each end and allowed it to dry.

I reattached all the hardware, and calibrated both vials using another level as a guide. Completed, my dad’s old level is once again accurate and ready for the workshop. You can just make out the replaced vial in the photo on the left. Now, as to the donor level I bought, it’s still sitting here in need of a plumb vial. There’s clearly something wrong with this scenario!

Filed under History, Preservation Tagged with Bailey, Hand Tools, Level, Preservation, Restoration, Stanley, Stanley Rule & Level, Stanley Works, Tools

“Excelsior” Profile Stanley Block Planes

June 24, 2013 2 Comments

Ever wonder about the origin of the word “Excelsior” as it refers to the body style on Stanley block planes? Why Excelsior? What does it mean? Was it an official Stanley name or a term that has been applied in recent years?

Me too.

For anyone unfamiliar with the term, the “Excelsior” profile refers to the first body style used on Stanley block planes. Dating from 1873 to 1898, the Excelsior profile differs from the later profile in that the “hump” in the cheeks is positioned more toward the rear of the plane. After 1898 the hump was centered in the cheek profile and has the familiar milled Handi-grip indentions. And yes, there was a very brief period of a few months in 1898 when the excelsior bodies also included the Handi-grip indentions.

Early Excelsior Profile Stanley 9-3/4 Type 1

The word Excelsior comes from the latin word excelsus, meaning meaning “ever upward” or “even higher.” It is the origin for the word Excel, which obviously means to surpass in achievement. However, more interesting and relevant for us, “Excelsior” is commonly defined as fine curled wood shavings used for packing. Given that definition, it certainly makes sense that “Excelsior” was the name Stanley assigned to a line of block planes.

The earliest Stanley reference to Excelsior I could find is in the 1867 price list, which lists a “Patent Excelsior Tool Handle,” a wooden multi-tool handle that included 20 Bradawls and tools. However, the multi-tool handle design more commonly referred to today as Excelsior was patented on March 19, 1867. That patent design was awarded to Nathan S. Clement, and featured a different method of clamping the tool bits into the handle than the previous Stanley offerings. As was often the case, the patent was eventually acquired by Stanley Rule & Level and incorporated into their product line, and was reflected in both wooden and the ornate iron handled multi-tool handles.

Stanley also referred to their Bailey’s Patent Adjustable Block Planes as “Excelsior Block Planes” when they were introduced in 1873. This term only applied to the adjustable mouth planes, such as the no. 9-1/2, no. 9-3/4, no. 15, etc. The no. 110 and other non-adjustable planes had a different cheek profile, and were simply listed as Iron Block Planes in Stanley catalogs.

I did a little patent search sleuthing but could only find one reference that in any way tied in the term excelsior to hand or block planes. In 1875, Albion K. Hall of Jackson, MI patented a plane specifically for making excelsior shavings. However, I found nothing that tied him in any way to Stanley, so I assume there was no relationship between the two.

Stanley continued to use the Excelsior name for their multi-tools until 1902, and their planes until about 1898, when the profile was redesigned, moving the hump toward the center of the cheek. Today, the Excelsior planes are attractive primarily to collectors. While certainly usable, their castings tend to be thinner and more fragile than the later models, lending them better to display shelves than workbenches. Either way, they remain, in my opinion, one of the more attractive plane designs ever devised.

The Excelsior line included the following planes:
no. 9-1/2
no. 9-3/4
no. 15
no. 15-1/2
no. 16
no. 17
no. 18
no. 19

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Filed under Hand Planes, Tools Tagged with Antique, Bailey, Block Plane, Excelsior, Hand Tools, Leonard Bailey, Plane, Stanley, Stanley Rule & Level, Stanley Works, Tools, Vintage, Woodworking

Working Within the Limits of Tool Preservation

June 11, 2013 2 Comments

I spent a long time researching and learning about tool preservation before I ever touched a plane. Even so, it was a couple or three years before I really settled into a comfort zone where the hands on experience I gained began to gel with the “book knowledge” I’d accumulated. For me, the greater appeal has always been geared more toward preservation than restoration (although I use the word restoration more often when casually talking about “cleaning up” a plane or tool). It’s probably a matter of semantics; I think most people equate restoration with refinishing, while preservation, by it’s very definition, speaks to preserving and sustaining. To me, that’s more accurate, and is a key part of my guiding philosophy and approach to tools.

It’s very easy for me to “go too far” when cleaning up a tool, to make it pretty vs. simply making it functional. My underlying intent is to preserve the character, finish, patina, etc. whenever possible. Dirt and rust are not sacred to me (as they are to some collectors), they are destructive elements of neglect. When I’m cleaning up a tool, I try to stay within the same boundaries that a woodworker of 100 years ago would have stayed within. He would have only been interested in preserving his tools, keeping them clean and in good working order, not making them pretty to sell on eBay. I constantly remind myself of that, not because I’m right and everyone else is wrong, but because it’s consistent and true to the values and parameters I defined when I started this venture. It’s my mission statement, if you will.

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Filed under Preservation, Tools Tagged with Archival, Cleaning, Hand Planes, Hand Tools, Preservation, Restoration, Stanley, Tools, Vintage, Woodworking

Tune Your Block Plane Tonight

January 19, 2013 2 Comments

Following the popularity of the recent post, Tune Your Hand Plane Tonight, let’s now talk about block planes. Much of the information will be the same, but block planes are different enough to warrant a dedicated set of instructions. Besides, since there are probably more block planes owned today and sitting unused in garages and workshops than there are bench planes, they deserve a little love of their own.

As I’ve written before, I have a particularly strong affinity for block planes. They are the sexy two seater sports cars of the hand plane world – quick, nimble, and fun to handle. But more than that, they are extraordinarily versatile and practical for many handy-man chores around the house, as well as indispensable tools in the wood shop. Even the most ardent power tool user, and certainly the average homeowner, should have at least one or two block planes in his or her arsenal.

Keeping a block plane in good working order is quite easy. Tuning one for optimal performance is a simple proposition that can be accomplished in an hour or so, if not less. As I did with the bench plane instructions, I’m going to assume that your block plane is already in a mechanically functional condition and doesn’t require a full blown restoration. For that level of detail, I recommend reading the posts under Preservation on the menu bar at the top of the page. Since there are multiple mechanical styles and configurations of block planes, I’m going to try to keep it fairly generic, so you may need to interpolate for your specific plane.

Step 1 – Pour Drink of Preference

For working on block planes, let’s go with something a little more exotic than the bourbon we enjoy with our bench planes. I recommend Rendezvous Rye from the High West distillery. It is… complex and superb. Of course, what you drink is up to you, but moderation is certainly recommended, for while you won’t be working with electrically powered tools, you will be handling very sharp objects. (5 minutes)

Step 2 – Disassembly & Cleaning

The second step is to completely disassemble your plane and clean all the parts. Using screwdrivers of the appropriate size, remove all the parts – lever cap, cap bolt, lateral lever, eccentric lever, adjustment screws, knobs, etc. If you’re not completely familiar with what and where everything goes or are worried you might have trouble putting it all back together, take before pictures or notes.

Once disassembled, brush off all the sawdust and dirt. If the filth is excessive, use a toothbrush and orange degreaser (available at the hardware or grocery store). Also take a few minutes to clean the threads and slots on all the screws and bolts. I use a small wire bristle brush with a little turpentine or light penetrating oil like WD-40. Once cleaned, wipe them down and set them out of the way so they don’t attract grit. (10 minutes)

Step 3 – Hello Froggy

Unlike frogs on bench planes, the frogs on block planes are usually fixed platforms cast into the body of the plane. The top of the frog provides a small platform for the iron to sit, while the flat area behind the mouth offers support near the cutting edge. Both surface areas should be clean of dirt and debris. A toothbrush or brass bristle brush with degreaser works well, although you can also use WD-40 or turpentine. The face of the frog is one of the more critical surfaces of the plane. Once clean, fit the iron against the frog and verify that it sits flat and securely with no wobble. You don’t want any wiggle or movement, so any high spots or irregularities in the casting need to be carefully filed or sanded flat. (5-15 minutes)

Step 4 – Adjustimability of the Mouth

Many “premium” models of block planes feature an adjustable mouth opening. This typically means the front section of plane’s sole is a separate piece than can be positioned toward the toe (thus opening the size of the mouth) or closer to the iron (closing the size of the mouth opening). It is necessary to periodically remove this piece to clean out sawdust that has accumulated, and to clean and lubricate the tracks upon which the plate rides. If it doesn’t adjust easily forward and back, it needs attention.

Since you’ve already disassembled the plane, make sure both the plate itself and the receiver in which it sits are both clean of debris. Brush the edges of the plate and tracks of the receiver with a brass or wire bristle brush lubricated with light oil or turpentine. Fit the plate in place and verify that it moves fairly freely. It is not normally necessary (nor desirable) to sand the edges of the plate to make it move more easily, although this is sometimes necessary if the plane is vintage and the plate a replacement. If you decide metal removal is absolutely necessary, be careful and go very slow. You can’t un-sand. (5-15 minutes)

Step 5 – Inspect the Sole

Take a look at the sole (bottom) of the plane. Inspect for dents or dings with raised points around the edges that might dig into your wood surface when planing. If you find any, carefully file them flat with a mill file, followed by a little 220 grit sandpaper. Unlike bench planes, which have a lot more surface area, flattening the sole of a block plane is a relatively painless process. Although not usually a critical requirement, flattening the bottom will often provide superior results in use.

First, temporarily re-install the iron and lever cap and tighten to normal pressure. This ensures the body will be under the same stress (and any possible distortion) as when in actual use. Working against a dead flat substrate such as a granite sharpening block or the iron bed of a table saw, start with 60 grit and go through progressively finer grits until you are satisfied that the toe, heel, and areas just in front of and behind the mouth are all completely flat and smooth. I usually stop with 320 grit. Aluminum Oxide sandpaper is my preference. If you don’t want to invest in a granite sharpening block, granite floor tiles from your local home center are just the right size and cost around $5 each. (30-45 minutes depending)

Step 6 – Time to Sharpen

Yes, sharpening is the step everyone loves to hate, the step that prevents so many people from ever trying a hand plane. The trick is not to wait until you need to use the tool. Make time for sharpening in advance, and make a party out of it! Okay , so maybe not a party, but there is something truly rewarding about getting an edge you can shave with. It’s relaxing and I really do enjoy it. Since this is not a sharpening tutorial, I’ll leave the particulars on methodology to another post or reference. But if you do nothing else, take the time to put a keen edge on your plane’s iron. A 25 degree bevel works perfectly on most block planes – both low angle and standard angle models. The angle of the plane’s bed varies on these models, usually either 12 degrees for low angle planes or 20 degrees for standard angle planes. Add the 25 degree bevel and you end up with a 37 degree low angle of cut, or a 45 degree standard angle of cut (same as bench planes). Add a micro bevel if you want, and don’t forget to polish the unbeveled back edge. (30 minutes)

Step 7 – Lubrication

Lubrication is a good idea, but should be done sparingly since oil attracts dirt and grit. I add just a drop of light oil to the threads of all the bolts and screws before re-installing them. I also add a drop to all the moving/adjustment parts, but wipe them with a rag afterward so that only a light film is left. They certainly don’t need to be dripping.

Some guys believe in waxing the sole. Nothing wrong with that as long as you don’t use a silicone based wax. However, I just wipe down all exterior surfaces with a little Jojoba oil for storage. (5 minutes)

Step 8 – Assemble, Adjust, Cut

Time to put it all back together. Re-attach the eccentric lever and front plate (if it has one), adjustment wheel, lateral lever, knobs, etc. and all related hardware. Carefully put the iron and cap iron assembly in place being careful not to fould the newly sharpened edge, and install the lever cap. It should lock down securely, but not so tight as to inhibit raising and lowering the iron. Adjust the front plate (if it has one) forward or backward as needed for the type of planing you intend to do (again, see open vs closed mouth). Once set, lower the iron into the mouth to take your first test cut. All of your hardware and adjustment mechanisms should move freely and smoothly. (10-15 minutes)

Unless you run into an unexpected problem, the entire tuning and sharpening process can be completed in about 1 to 2-1/2 hours, and even quicker if you’re tuning a new plane or re-tuning a plane that has already been tuned or well cared for. It’s easy, rewarding, and builds both knowledge and confidence in your ability to master hand and block planes.

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Filed under Hand Planes, Preservation, Sharpening, Tools Tagged with Block Plane, Cleaning, Hand Planes, Hand Tools, Preservation, Restoration, Sharpening, Stanley, Tuning, Woodworking

Tune Your Hand Plane Tonight

January 17, 2013 Leave a comment

Among the most frequent web searches that lead people to this site come from those looking for information on tuning a hand plane. Admittedly, for those new to the craft, or at least new to using hand tools, the prospect of setting up and fine tuning a hand plane is daunting. After all, the nomenclature of parts is bewildering, the functional mechanics are an exercise in geometry and physics, and then there’s that whole issue with sharpening. It’s no wonder so many people would rather spend an evening prepping for a colonoscopy.

But yea I say unto you, fear not! Tending to a neglected (or new) hand plane is both relaxing and rewarding, and in most cases takes just an hour or two. Best of all, the gratification is instant, the rewards immediate.

Now in the interest of keeping things simple, I’m going to assume that your plane is already in a mechanically functional condition and doesn’t require a full blown restoration. For that level of detail, I recommend reading the posts under Preservation on the menu bar at the top of the page. I’m also going to focus solely on bench planes. I’ll cover black planes in a later post. For simple tuning in one evening, read on…